When we think of acid, we think of highly toxic, burning chemicals that couldn’t possibly be good for your skin right? There are actually some very GOOD acids that help all different skin types! With that being said, I just did a micro lab that broke it down to easily understand, so let’s dig in!
Most commonly known active ingredients in skin care are AHA’s (Alpha Hydroxy Acids) and BHA’s (Beta-Hydroxy Acids). There’s also a third, lesser known kind called PHA’s or Polyhydroxic Acids. These PHA’s are not created naturally but are milder, chemical acids used for exfoliation instead of AHA’s – that also have added moisture properties in them.
How do you know which acid may work for you? Let’s take a look at your skin type to do the break down a little further!
Dry Skin – common dry skin is just a side effect of living in the desert of Nevada. I can slather on products until the cows come home (well, maybe the bees since no cows here!) and my skin sometimes still feels dry to the touch. This is when I know it’s time for my nightly cleanse & re-moisturize ritual. Dry skin thrives on moisture added products so something with lots of humectants is always a must. Acids that help ‘suck in’ and ‘hold onto’ that moisture might include – Lactic acid, Mandelic acid, in addition with Panthenol. This provides gentle exfoliation of old, dead skin cells while hydrating the new layer underneath.
Oily & Acne Prone Skin – needs a bit of calming on the sebum secretions so Salicylic or Glycolic acids might be a stronger solution. If that oily skin is reddened by too harsh of a treatment, a drop down to the Mandelic acid might also help with the oil issue and preserve the sensitive skin. Also, a lighter moisturizer with some Niacinamide (Vitamin B3) might be a great addition to your warmer weather routine when you need lighter coverage.
Combination Skin – usually means you have balanced skin except maybe a little more oil in the “T-zone”. For this type, you can use some stronger Retinol or Retinol-replacement acids on that T-zone along with a Glycolic or Hyaluronic acid on the remainder of your face and neck and maybe a lighter gel moisturizer base.
Balanced Skin – All skin, even well balanced, needs plenty of hydration! Most likely, you are blessed to have great skin and can experiment with many types of active ingredients. As always, you should start gradually and increase the percentage over time. Age is a good determination of how long your skin cells turn over to see results at the percentage your on.
Mature Skin – to all my beautifully ‘mature’ ladies such as myself. Congrats on keeping your skin beautiful for so long! As we age, however, our face and neck skin (along with other sensitive, sun-exposed areas, become thinner, and need some extra attention. For us, we can use collagen-prompting acids (think just about all of them!) with additional peptides, ceramides and of course – tons of humectants for moisture!
For all skin types, you want a clean start with a DRY face. Apply your product gently, with a light patting motion (no rubbing!) until you feel it dissolved into your skin and WAIT. Yes, you need to wait to apply that next or final layer of hydrating moisturizer and/or SPF until your active ingredient is dry and had a chance to soak into your pores. You shouldn’t be using more than three products at a time after each cleansing and remember that some acids can cause photosensitivity (reaction to sunlight) so either a night time application or plenty of sunscreen to prevent a reaction.
I hope you enjoyed another science behind your skincare blog and I will hope to give you more soon! Thanks to Formula Botanica for the great lesson and if you want to try some new products, I’d love to chat!
